Market mornings in Onitsha

Every Saturday before sunrise my grandmother would wrap dried ugu leaves in banana leaves and walk the long road down to Ose Okwodu. The traders were already there, haggling in Igbo so fast it sounded like song. I would be holding her hand, half-asleep, learning the names of each compound by the smell of their pepper.

Audio transcript

Saturday before sunrise. Grandmother wraps dried ugu leaves. Walks down to Ose Okwodu. The traders are already there, haggling in Igbo so fast it sounds like song. I am holding her hand, half-asleep, learning the names of each compound by the smell of their pepper.